At a time when a multitude of debates have formulated over the meaning of the veil in modern times, it’s refreshing to explore the symbol in a traditional context. The Horniman Museum successfully does so with its ‘People of the Veil’ exhibition, in which the culture and identity of the Tuareg people are explored through their jewellery and clothing. These symbols not only serve to unite the Tuareg people, but also serve to reflect divisions within their own society.

Despite the fact that the Tuareg are spread throughout the North West regions of Africa, they find their roots within the clothes and jewellery they wear. Through these symbols, the Tuareg are able to make connections with their people and traditions. By dressing in such a manner as to emulate their value system, the Tuareg people feel obliged to act in accordance with this system. As a result, their outward, physical appearance directly correlates to the construction of their internal identities.

The Tuareg society is founded upon two principles, the first being asshak, which embodies honour, pride, and dignity. The second, tekarakit, upholds ideals of decency, integrity, respect, and restraint. In accordance with this, they are expected to hide their emotions, especially when it comes to showing affection in public, and to be calm and dignified at all times. Through neatly folded veils and headdresses and geometric, silver jewellery, the reserve required by tekarakit is portrayed. Asshak, on the other hand, is illustrated through graceful movements, and therefore calls for the voluminous, flowing robes and jewellery. As a result, wearing the symbols of asshak and tekarakit in a physical sense allow each individual to identify with these values in an internal sense as well.

The cultural symbol most closely related to the Tuareg people is the indigo veil. The indigo cloth was very expensive in the past and reserved for the upper classes of Tuareg society, but with today’s mass production it is now available to the entire population. The veil is also used to differentiate between the sexes, as the veil is worn by the men and a headcloth by the women. Unlike in other cultures, it is the men who cover their faces with the cloth. A boy is given his first veil once he reaches puberty, marking his cross over from childhood to adulthood. The veil can also be tied in various ways, which is used to reflect the different regions, social class, age, and tribal affiliations within Tuareg society. Although the veil is, in many ways, used to divide the culture, it is simultaneously the most unifying symbol of the Tuareg people. For men, women, and Tuaregs of all classes, tribes, and regions, the headdresses reflect respect for the social rules held so closely at the foundation of Tuareg society.

The Tuareg clothing can also be used to represent the culture’s history. Today, many of the women wear black or white synthetic blouses decorated with red embroidery and sequins. These blouses are called Temse n Rhissa, meaning the Fire of Rhissa, as a symbolic tribute to Rhissa ag Boula. In 1995, Tuaregs in Nigeria and Mali revolted, seeking autonomy and their own nation-state. Rhissa ag Boula was the main rebel leader in the fight, and the sequins on the shirts are said to represent the bullets he fired during the revolt. Even today, the shirts remain very popular and serve as a constant reminder of how the Tuareg fought for their independence.

Jewellery also serves as an important marker for women in Tuareg society. As physical appearance is held very dear to the culture, jewellery helps enhance a woman’s beauty in their eyes. Yet it also functions as a source of protection from the evil eye, which is believed to inflict injury or bad luck on the person at which it is directed. All ages wear triangular amulets, which represent the shape of a woman seated from behind and the female pubic area. These pieces not only celebrate the woman’s body, but also unite all Tuareg women in their quest for ultimate beauty and protection.

The jewellery can, in a sense, also be used to separate each woman from the others as specific pieces are used to indicate different stages of a woman’s life. For example, when a woman is getting married her groom is expected to give her a silver necklace, called a tadnet, a bracelet, ring, heavy earrings, and gold jewellery. Gold is regarded as a stable and secure investment as it is much more expensive than the everyday silver jewellery. As a result, gold jewellery is used to represent the status of a woman in a committed relationship.

Although the Tuareg work to maintain their identity as a single, unified culture through these various symbols, the different regions also struggle to establish their own, unique identity. While the Ahaggar Tuareg of Algeria don a djellaba (woollen robe), the women of the Aïr Mountains strategically place black makeup on their eyes and lips and white and red geometric patterns on their nose and cheeks. In conclusion, while the veil and amulets allow the Tuareg to unite and recognise their similar societal values, their culture also allows them the freedom to establish their identities.

The Horniman Museum does an excellent job of allowing its viewers to explore this culture from an interesting angle. In investigating the Tuareg through clothing and jewellery, the exhibition is able to get to the core of what the culture and society is founded and its traditional modes of displaying these values.  There is in-depth information not only on the clothing and jewellery itself, but also how it is deeply related to the Tuareg society and its traditions. It is very interesting to see how the Tuareg rely so heavily on their external appearance to establish their own identities, and how the veil is used in this context. All in all, this exhibition is definitely one worth visiting.

Till 27 February 2011